Using The R.E.A.P. Test To Pick A Good
Carry Gun
Key Considerations in
Selecting a Firearm – When selecting a gun
for defensive purposes, I use what I call the R.E.A.P. test. This acronym
stands for: reliability, ergonomics, accuracy and power. For me,
reliability is number one, because in a gunfight, as well as my secondary use
for most of my guns (competitions), reliability is very, very important.
One other note before I break down R.E.A.P. into more details, I STRONGLY
recommend picking one model of handgun that will meet all of your priorities
and needs, and spend your time and money (for ammunition) on that one gun.
If you are a very experienced shooter, then you can make the decision to switch
back and forth between different guns, but the new shooter should stick to one
thing. This will allow you to focus on developing fundamental skills to
an advanced level rather than chasing equipment and the newest gun or
gimmick. Remember the saying: “beware of the man with only one gun, for
he probably knows how to shoot it.” Here is what you need to look at when
selecting a firearm for combative purposes, listed in order of priority:
§ Reliability. The number one thing a firearm must do
is work. Nothing else matters if you have a malfunction during a
fight. Most good production guns should be very reliable out
of the box, and with a good gunsmith custom guns should work every time.
If they don’t work, get rid of them. You will want to pay
Some
very reliable M&P’s
particular attention to the ammunition you
use, and the magazines you use to feed that ammunition into the gun, because
the large majority of malfunctions are indeed caused by faulty ammunition or
magazines, NOT the gun. If you know without a doubt that the magazines
and ammunition are good, and the gun fails, then it is time to do some
trading. Actually, if the gun is a carry gun, do someone a favor and get
the gun fixed if possible before trading it, or at least let them know what
they are getting so they don’t stake their life on the gun. How reliable
should a gun be? An example would be my current teaching guns the M&P
9, 9C, and the XDM 3.8. These guns are the ones I have used to teach
almost every defensive/tactical class I have done over the last 4 years, as
well as countless hours of training. The full sized gun finally failed to
eject (this may have been an ammunition issue) after 15,000 + rounds and fours
years of hard training with very minimal
cleaning (I did lubricate
it…but did not clean it on purpose). My carry gun, the M&P 9C gets
cleaned because it is a carry gun, and with more than 7,000 rounds, has yet to
fail. That is my idea of reliability. If you can’t go through
numerous training sessions without a malfunction, then your gun is NOT
reliable.
§ Ergonomics. The second thing I look for in a
firearm is its physical design and ability to be shot well. Generally a
gun with a low bore to axis ratio will recover better during recoil because
this low axis causes the recoil to travel straight back and through the arm,
rather than up. The recoil has to go somewhere, and a well-
A
1911, an example of a gun with great ergonomics.
designed gun will recoil considerably
less. The slide lock lever, magazine release, and other manipulation
devices should be located in easy to reach and operate spots. If you
purchase any high quality production firearm made by a reputable company, these
items won’t be a problem. Ambidextrous operating devices are preferred,
and at a minimum the safety, if the gun has one, should be located and operable
on both sides of the gun. If you have a choice, you should select a
single action type (or similar such as the triggers you will find on Glocks
XDM’s, and S&W M&P’s) trigger design for the first and following shots,
as double action triggers just require more work when trying to hit a small
target fast on that first shot. Please don’t take this as a knock on any
gun type out there, but the simple truth is that a double action type trigger
is significantly harder to manage on in situations where you have a high
accuracy requirement. While this may be less likely in a defensive
situation, having a trigger that is easier to manage could be a big key if you
are shooting around family members or friends that you do not want to
hit. Another feature you will find on most modern production guns these
days is adjustable or interchangeable grip panels that allow you to modify
(very quickly) the guns grip size to fit your hand. I would strongly
recommend a gun that offers this feature. Lastly, the single best
test of ergonomics is to shoot the gun and try to manipulate it while
shooting. You will find noticeable differences in different designs and
the gun you can run well is probably the gun you should consider carrying.
Don’t carry a gun you can’t operate well!
§ Accuracy. Accuracy is third on my list because while it is
important, it is not the most important factor since
Group
at 15 yards, the shot to the right was a called flier.
most handgun fights will occur at very close
ranges. I do prefer a very accurate gun if I can get the first
two requirements (reliability and ergonomics) met as well as accuracy. I
am pretty particular about having a carry gun that will shoot as good or better
than I am able to shoot it, and with some of the high quality production guns
on the market today this is something that is possible to find (one of my
current carry guns, a S&W M&P C, shoots as well as I do).
Production carry guns should be capable of shooting a group of four to six
inches at 25 yards at a minimum, and if they can’t, I suggest you research
aftermarket barrels to try to increase accuracy.
§ Power. While I am not inclined to get into a stopping power
discussion you might see on a .45 versus .40 forum string because it is such a
hotly debated subject, I will say that stopping power is something that should
be considered. Select a caliber that offers the most stopping power and
compromise of controllability you can find. We would all carry .50
caliber handguns if we were able, but there is always a compromise between
recoil and the size of the gun versus stopping power. Guns with bigger
more powerful bullets (ammunition) are often bigger guns and are harder to
carry and conceal. They also recoil more, which isn’t a bad thing if you
have the ability to control that recoil. In terms of stopping power, the
human body requires a certain amount of penetration (10-12 inches) for a bullet
to affect damage to vital organs via a crushing mechanism and “stop” the
threat. In addition, a bullet that is built to cause the most damage and
largest temporary and permanent (the most important) wound channel is likely to
be more effective than one that does less damage. For me, this is a 9mm
or larger, with a good bullet design. If you are interested in
researching this topic as well as finding out how your current carry round (or
the one you are thinking about carrying) performs, I strongly recommend you
visit and read some of Dr. Gary Roberts material, one such forum currently
being M4carbine.net. Dr. Roberts is in my opinion one of the best sources
for data in relation to ammunition performance that there is. His
material is easy to find, and even easier to understand and apply.
Do the research and pick the best caliber you can, so you can spend your time
training for better shot placement at faster speeds while others argue about
stopping power.
In addition to these
four performance related factors, I would also try to select a firearm that
meets some (or all) of these secondary considerations:
§ High Capacity. The more bullets I can carry in the
gun, the less I have to reload it. I have no interest in having to reload
during a fight, as doing so costs time that might allow my enemy to overcome
me. The downside to a higher capacity gun is that they are usually
thicker and harder to conceal, especially in an IWB holster (inside the waist
band).
§ Lightweight. Heavy guns are harder to carry. I carry a small
lightweight Smith and Wesson M&P C most of the time, and in some cases
switch to a full size gun. When doing so I immediately notice the
additional discomfort of having that extra weight pulling on my belt.
Try to find a gun that is comfortable enough that you will be okay carrying it
all the time.
§ Stock Ready. This means that I recommend you select a gun that
is ready to carry right out of the box. The most likely replacement from
the factory should probably be sights. High quality manufacturers offer
“stock ready” guns right out of the box. There are some things to
consider when “setting” up your gun though, and some aftermarket changes are a
good thing. Others are probably not recommended. The following
section will provide that information…..(more can be found in Your Defensive Handgun Training Program)
Until Then – Train
Hard
Mike S.
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